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scotland 07 trip report

We had a great trip to scotland, with good ice and snow and reasonable weather. We climbed the following:

SW Ridge of Douglas Boulder (III): Very little ice/snow but climbed in crampons. Great little route, offered some shelter from fierce easterly wind. Start was a bit tricky/fun (not surprising Tom and I hesitated in 2004). Slightly trickier version of dorsal arete.

Twisting Gully (III,4): Climbed second in a procession of three pairs of climbers. Top pair was very slow (even relative to us), so lots of waiting at belays. Crux was fun and not too hard (less powder than when murray did it). Later steep ramp of frozen turf and iced rock was probably the scariest bit.


Alex just above the crux in twisting gully.

Icicle Gully, Aonach Mor (III): Left twin was busy, not surprisingly, so we tried this little-known alternative. I made 30m of excellent ice/snow before a steep 8m ice pitch that looked at least grade IV. After some hesitation I made a careful and graceful retreat.

Thom Maloney